"The Eye Has to Travel" - Diana Vreeland
In addition to worshiping the fashion and style, Diana Vreeland venerated jewelry. Editor of the magazines "Harper's Bazaar" and "Vogue", a cult figure of the 20th century, the woman, who turned magazines with pictures depicting fashionable clothes in authoritative publications in the field of fashion and style, catching and dictating new trends, was born in Paris, in 1903, in an aristocratic family Dalziel. As a matrilineal relative of George Washington himself and a distant relative to the Rothschild family Diana Dalziel did not experience financial problems and always moved in the highest aristocratic circles. She was well educated, which allowed her to deal with art brilliantly. In addition to impeccable posture, dance lessons with the Russian ballet master instilled her passion for oriental luxury. Moreover, horseback riding with guards officers taught her that the world's best color is red, the color of guard uniforms.
In her younger years, Diana was difficult to be called beauty; nevertheless, she always had a sense of style. The innate elegance, which cannot be raised. Either it is there or there is not. It is not surprising that she was not yet twenty, when "Vogue" noticed her for the first time and called one of the most attractive starlets of the winter 1922.
In 1924, mademoiselle Diana Dalziel became Madame Vreeland. The famous American Banker Thomas Reed Vreeland gave Diana not only money, but also a sense of confidence. Next to him, she always knew that she was gorgeous. She had a small lingerie sewing business and she did not even think about work in any magazine.
In 1936, future star of fashion journalism lighted up at the party at "Sent Regis" at a time when Carmel Snow, then editor of "Harper's Bazaar", invited Diana Vreeland to have a column in the magazine, which was decided to be called "Why Don't You..." The most daring and innovative ideas in the field of fashion were intended to be discussed in that material. The ideas really emerged and were very diverse. Vreeland broke down many stereotypes in the field of dressing up. Diana taught women to think, experiment. Her love for bikini came from there. Her passion to popularize the bright colors, especially the beloved red, came from there. It is due to her, red became natural feminine color. Nail varnish, lipstick, accessories, and jewelry.
"Why Don't You..." column by Diana Vreeland in the Harper's Bazaar magazine. December 1936
By and large, Diana Vreeland never became a journalist in the truest sense of the word. She couldn't just write about fashion. She made fashion. Nevertheless, that was just what was needed. "Fashion must be the most intoxicating release from the banality of the world," Diana Vreeland declared. She treated jewels likewise, skillfully combining a lot of gems and jewelry, which she put on abundantly, while remaining impeccably stylish. Byzantine cuff bracelets "Chanel", which she wore quite often, including while working as an editor at the magazine "Vogue" in 1960s, were among her favorite ones.
Diana Vreeland in bracelets with Maltese crosses by Chanel, designer Fulco di Verdura.
The story of bracelets is linked to Coco Chanel. One time Chanel worked with young Italian Duke Fulco di Verdura, designer jeweler, possessing an aristocratic manner in making the works, in which one can feel the power of intellect, flawless style and refined taste. It is he, whom belongs the idea of creating exotic pieces of jewelry, very stylish ones with lots of bright stones. Famous bracelets with Maltese crosses were among the jewelry, which was usually worn by Coco Chanel. The idea and the shape of the bracelets was a new word in the world of jewelry and was appreciated by Diana Vreeland as well. There are many pictures of Diana with these bracelets; she wore a pair of them too.
Vreeland was not only a close friend of goldsmith Jean Schlumberger, but also his mentor and adviser throughout his career. Since first meeting him in Paris, Diana started calling him Johnny. She ordered a brooch of her dreams from the talented designer.
The brooch had been made before he began to work for Tiffany & Co., and the jewel is now considered one of the earliest masterpieces from Jean Schlumberger. Vreeland said that she admired that brooch, never parted with it and kept it on the nightstand. It reminded her of the statue of Polish King Stanislas in Nancy, of war, military valor and protecting the women, who were under the hatches.
In the best way possible, that unique brooch suited Diana, one of the best fighters in the world of fashion. Vreeland gave life to many precious collections by "Bvlgari" Jewelry House. Not only separate shoots were dedicated to jewelry "snakes" in Vogue, Diana Vreeland was offering her way to wear "Bvlgari" "snakes": for example, a belt of gold, covered with white and pink enamel, worn as a necklace.
Snake jewelry, Bvlgari.
Kenneth Jane Lane, an American goldsmith, whose jewelry have been famous in America until now, was Diana Vreeland's incredible revelation. A true gentleman, dandy, witty and elegant, Kenneth found common language with all — from Duchess of Windsor to Andy Warhol. Britney Spears, Nicole Richie, Barbara Bush and all modern American beau monde was among his clients. King of bijouterie, master of "fake jewelry", he was equally popular among those who could pay for authentic jewelry and among democratic public. Jacqueline Kennedy even bespoke copies of jewelry by him to wear them safely at a time when the originals were stored in a secure vault. Television sales of his jewelry have still been making records, and he lives like a Maharaja in one of the few surviving mansions at Park Avenue.
Kenneth Jane Lane | Lady GaGa wearing jewelry by Kenneth Jane Lane
Vreeland always had an unusual flair for trends. She revealed Lauren Bacall's mysterious glance to Hollywood. A little known model had appeared on the pages of Harper's Bazaar in 1943, and a year later, she already starred with Humphrey Bogart.
Lauren Bacall on the cover of Harper's Bazaar. March 1943
In "Vogue", Vreeland's soothsayer talent had already revealed in full. Beatles, Twiggy, Edie Sedgwick, Diane von Furstenberg, Manolo Blahnik... It's hard to name the celebrity of those years, who passed by her “People are Talking About..." The part with Mick Jagger was the most amusing one. When a photograph of a young and unknown singer was brought to Vreeland, she said: "“I don’t care who he is, but he looks great and we’ll publish it. Those lips!” Therefore, the first photo, published in the United States, of the leading "Rolling Stone" appeared in 1964, in "Vogue". Nevertheless, a year later, Jagger and his fellows blew up the world crying "I can get no!”
Mick Jagger. Vogue, July 1964.
Vreeland worked at "Harper's Bazaar" a quarter of a century, having made it one of the most widely read fashion magazines. In 1962, went into "Vogue" to the position of Associate Editor, but with a much higher salary. Shortly after the departure of Jessica Davies, in March 1963, Diana became the Vogue's Editor-in-Chief. "Vogue" is a fairly conservative publication. Over the past 100 years, it changed only five editors. Vreeland's era was the shortest, just eight years, but it also was richest.
Diana Vreeland in her Office of Vogue magazine. 1965
At Vreeland's rule, "Vogue" changed the concept completely. It ceased to be a fashion magazine. It becomes a trendy magazine. In fact, it was the fashion. Everything that there is in Vogue, is in fashion. In addition, all this is Diana Vreeland, the woman, who made cults and determined trends in the decades ahead.
Without a doubt, Diana Vreeland has left an indelible mark in the world of fashion jewelry throughout her "reign" and later as its unofficial "empress". The most important things, hidden in those jewels, were emotions. The emotional factor was decisive for vintage jewelry to carry away Diana Vreeland. Famous jewelry designers and Jewelry Houses were at the back of those pieces.
Not so long ago an excellent documentary on Diana Vreeland had been released, if someone didn't see — we recommend a look. At least to understand who and how changes our world and consciousness.
Photo by Vladislav Filin.